Manus x Machina – Maroquinerie

The métier that specializes in fine leatherwork is known as maroquinerie. Leatherworking practices have a long history with dresses and accessories, but it was only until the nineteenth century that the decorative technique evolved as part of haute couture. Embellishing garments with leather buttons, appliqués, cut work and trimming along with newer experiments using laser cuts, ultrasonic welding, dyes and stamping further cemented its use. Faux leather polyvinyl chloride, PVC, was first patented in 1913 and fully realized as a fashion tool in the 1960’s which allowed designers to create even more inventive pieces.

This is the last post in the series about the Manus x Machina exhibit at The Met.  Hopefully they were a source of inspiration or at least give further proof of what imagination and skill an accomplish. 

Features image Alexander McQueen (Sarah Burton)-Both A/W 2012-13 prét-à-porter: laser cut pony skin bonded to black leather, machine sewn and hand finished with Mongolian wool.

McQueen garment detail.
Valentino (Maria Grazi Chiuri & Pierpaolo Piccioli)-S/S 2016 prét-a-porter: machine sewn lace and tulle with hand riveted strips of fringed black leather.
Valentino hem detail.
Comme des Garçons-S/S 2015 prét-à-porter: Machine sewn polyester with overlay of laser cut black synthetic leather hand linked with silver metal jump rings and grommets. Second dress machine sewn polyester with laser cut synthetic leather, hand joined with silver metal rivets in a lattice pattern.
Jump ring detail.
Grommets with lattice work.
Christian Dior (John Galliano)-A/W 1997-98 haute couture: hand cut and hamd pieced leather with hand sewn wire frame.
Dior jacket detail.
Dolce and Gabbana-S/S 2013 haute couture: machine and hand sewn silk duchesse satin with laser cut green lamb fleece.
Pony fleece detail.
Manus x Machina

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